Introduction / Overview
Indigo is henna’s cool-toned counterpart—the plant that brings depth, dimension, and believable brunette-to-black shades without PPD, ammonia, or peroxide. Finely milled leaves of Indigofera tinctoria release the dye indigotin, which deposits blue tones on hair. On its own it’s subtle; paired with henna, it creates rich browns through jet black while keeping the natural look and feel people love.
Origins & History
For thousands of years, indigo coloured the world—from Indian and Persian textiles to North African and Mediterranean trading routes. Ancient dye houses fermented indigo leaves to produce the iconic deep blue for cloth. In cosmetic traditions, those same leaves—simply dried and ground—were used to deepen henna-coloured hair. Synthetic indigo disrupted the textile trade in the 19th century, yet leaf-based indigo remained a quiet constant in natural haircare, prized for its gentleness and authenticity.
Botanical Profile
Indigofera tinctoria is a leguminous shrub cultivated across parts of South Asia, North Africa, and the Middle East. For cosmetic use, the leaves are harvested, sun-dried, and milled into a fine powder. In ingredient lists: INCI Indigofera Tinctoria Leaf Powder. The powder appears green; the blue tone develops only after oxidation on hair.
Traditional & Modern Uses
Traditional: Deepening henna results, refreshing roots, and cooling warm copper tones with simple leaf-only pastes.
Modern: Building custom brunette palettes with henna, achieving soft black through layering, and adding subtle cooling glazes to counter excessive warmth.
Who It’s For
Indigo appeals to people who want:
- Natural-looking browns to black without harsh chemicals
- A way to cool down overly warm henna results
- Single-ingredient simplicity and label transparency
It’s not for those seeking lightening or frequent drastic colour changes—indigo deposits; it doesn’t lift.
What It Does
Indigo deposits a cool blue cast on the hair shaft. Combined with henna’s warm red/orange, it balances into browns and blacks that read “natural” rather than flat. Colour appears brighter right after rinsing, then matures over 24–48 hours as the dye settles and oxidizes—especially noticeable on lighter or grey hair. It adds visual depth and a cooler, more neutral tone to warm results.
The Science Behind It
Inside the leaf is indican, a colourless precursor. When mixed and exposed to air, enzymes and oxygen convert it to indigotin, the blue dye. On hair, indigo attaches best where henna’s lawsone has already bonded to keratin—think of henna as an anchor that improves indigo’s grip. Keeping the paste from drying and allowing time for oxidation are key to depth and longevity. Unlike oxidative chemical dyes, indigo does not lift or alter your natural melanin; it overlays with its own pigment.
Sustainability & Sourcing
As a legume, Indigofera tinctoria can support soil health in crop rotations. Leaf-only powders require minimal processing—harvesting, drying, milling—with no added metallic salts or synthetic dyes. We source for clean, fine grind and consistent dye behaviour, then pack in resealable, recyclable pouches to protect freshness and reduce waste. Store cool, dry, and sealed.
Did You Know?
- Indigo powder looks green in the pouch; the signature blue appears only after oxidation on hair.
- On very light or grey hair, an initial blue-green cast can show before settling deeper within 24–48 hours.
- A tiny pinch of salt in indigo mixes is a traditional trick to enhance “grab” on resistant roots.
- “Black henna” is a misnomer—pure indigo is not black henna and is PPD-free.
